Wednesday 21 October 2026 · Paris 14e & 6e

Matisse's
Montparnasse

A walk through the Paris of Henri Matisse and his friends: five stops, five stories, ninety minutes, back for dinner.

Start at stop 1 Map

Matisse in sixty seconds

▶ Listen · Who was Matisse? · 5 min

Henri Matisse (1869–1954) came late to painting. He was a lawyer's clerk in northern France when, about twenty and in bed after appendicitis, his mother gave him a box of paints. He said later that he felt "transported into a sort of paradise".

In 1905 he and his friends showed paintings in colours so violent that a critic called them fauves, wild beasts. American collectors living a few streets from here, the Steins, bought his work when almost nobody else would. He opened a school in 1908, then lived mostly in Nice for the light.

In 1941, aged 71, a cancer operation left him often in bed. He asked the surgeon for three or four years; he got thirteen, and spent them cutting painted paper with scissors: the cut-outs, a new art. He called it "drawing with scissors".

Five pictures to know him by

Woman with a Hat, 1905
Woman with a Hat, 1905. SFMOMA.
Dance, 1910
Dance, 1910. Hermitage.
The Red Studio, 1911
The Red Studio, 1911. MoMA.
Océanie, le ciel, 1946
Océanie, le ciel, 1946.
Self-portrait, 1906
Self-portrait, 1906. SMK Copenhagen.

All works by Henri Matisse are in the public domain in France and the EU since 1 January 2025.

The route

  1. 1
    Gauguin's street6 rue Vercingétorix · 17:50 · the yellow studio and the snow
  2. 2
    The artists' canteen21 avenue du Maine · 18:07 · a private club beats the curfew
  3. 3
    The old station and the AmericansPlace du 18-Juin-1940 · 18:20 · four hundred francs
  4. 4
    Carrefour VavinBalzac and the cafés · 18:33 · Rodin sends Matisse away
  5. 5
    Matisse's front door132 boulevard du Montparnasse · 18:45 · a swallow over a stain

Two more chapters for later: the Steins and the school and the garden two friends painted.

Open the mapThe booklet (PDF)